Plant-Based Textile Dyes: What You Need to Know
Share
Plant-Based Textile Dyes: What You Need to Know
Plant-based textile dyes do not aim to replicate industrial standards.
They have their own rules, their own limits… and their own language.
They are generally less vibrant, less uniform, sometimes less colorfast over time, and more expensive than synthetic dyes. They require more raw material, more time, more testing, more attention, and repeated gestures.
In other words: they are not suited to all uses, nor to all expectations.
Their color durability over time is comparable to that of black denim.
So why choose them?
Because they are rooted in a philosophy of respect for living systems, resources, and natural rhythms.
The beauty of this lies in the moment when the color no longer suits us…
The garment can simply be re-dyed through our monthly dye bath service.
Each plant-dyed piece is unique. The color develops slowly, in interaction with the fiber, the plant, the water, the temperature, and the human touch. This complexity is محسوس in the final result: a depth, a vibration, an organic quality that cannot be standardized.
The high level of craftsmanship involved gives each textile a higher intrinsic value. This is not a color that is applied, but a color that is embodied—inhabited by time and the living world.
You are not simply wearing a garment or an object: you are wearing a material transformed with care, intention, and respect.
Choosing plant-based dyeing is therefore a conscious choice.
A choice for singularity over uniformity.
For process over performance.
For a sensory connection to the living world, rather than a fixed color.
Transparency and Respect for the Client
We believe that a healthy relationship is built on clear and transparent information. Below are important aspects to consider in order to better understand the particularities of plant-based textile dyes and determine whether this approach meets your needs and expectations.
1. Color Variation
Natural dyeing differs from standard synthetic dyeing in that color may vary from sample to production. This is due to a variety of factors, including differences between textile mill batches, variations in dye harvest batches, pH levels (water, detergents, perspiration), etc. These variations may include slightly lighter or darker shades, slightly warmer or cooler tones, and so on.
Natural dyes will always have some level of variation in color and tone. This is inherent to the process and is not considered a defect or irregularity. Indigo-dyed items tend to show greater tonal variation, with noticeable highs and lows across panels or garments. Plant-based dyeing may also reveal previously invisible stains on second-hand garments or textiles.
2. Color Transfer / Crocking
Some of our dyes may exhibit slight color transfer when worn or rubbed during initial use. This varies depending on the dye and the fiber. Indigo, in particular, almost always crock during first use and is more noticeable on protein fibers such as wool. We recommend that consumers wash all naturally dyed items separately or with similar colors in cold water for the first wash.
3. pH Sensitivity
Natural dyes may shift in tone when exposed to substances with extreme pH levels (< pH 3 or > pH 9). We use this sensitivity to influence color outcomes by modifying the dye with specific auxiliaries. This means that some dyes may change color when exposed to acidic or alkaline substances.
pH sensitivity varies depending on the dye and fiber but is more common with cellulosic fibers (cotton, linen, hemp, jute, etc.).
In general, exposure to an acid may lighten a dye, while exposure to an alkaline substance may have no effect, or may slightly darken or redden the color. Stains caused by alkaline substances often disappear after washing, whereas acid exposure may create permanent marks. To mitigate this, it is recommended to saturate acid stains with cold water as soon as possible. Again, this mainly applies to cellulosic fibers.
Note: The above does not apply to indigo-dyed items.
4. Care for Naturally Dyed Products
Plant-dyed fibers should be kept out of direct light. Prolonged exposure to UV rays may either darken or fade a color, depending on the dye used. Many of our dyes have a tannin base, which tends to darken slightly over time and with UV exposure.
When washing naturally dyed items, use cold water and a pH-neutral soap. Never clean naturally dyed products with bleach, Oxiclean, or vinegar. Never pour soap directly onto garments in the washing machine.
Care instructions may vary depending on the fiber and construction of the product. We provide custom labels for each item, detailing care instructions either on a tag or product page.
Origine des couleurs does not accept returns on individual units once sold to the customer.
5. Ingredients
We use plants and insects in our process. Clients should inform us if they are developing a vegetarian or vegan product.
We use only non-toxic mineral mordants in our process. These include aluminum sulfate, ferrous sulfate, aluminum acetate, and tannins. We do not use chrome, zinc, copper, or other heavy metal mordants commonly found in conventional commercial dyeing.
6. Product Manufacturing
Origine des couleurs is not responsible for the quality of units supplied by the client or their manufacturers. Examples include:
- Fabric or garment construction defects
- Finishes that prevent dye from bonding to the fabric
- Fabric sensitivity to the heat required in the dyeing process
- Hardware discoloration
- Twisting or warping
7. Shrinkage
Clients are responsible for calculating shrinkage during sampling (for fashion clients). For individual customers, garments or accessories may shrink slightly due to the hot water used during several stages of the dyeing process.
Please note that shrinkage may vary depending on fiber type, mill batch, and may even vary slightly within the same batch.
8. Immersion / Even Dyeing
While we aim to eventually use industrial paddle dyeing machines to dye items in a single uniform color, we currently use semi-industrial vats. Please note that even items from the same dye lot may show slight variations in color.
9. Specialized Techniques
Special dyeing techniques such as ombré, hand painting, eco-printing, shibori (tie and resist dyeing), tie-dye, screen printing, etc., are handcrafted artistic processes. Variations between production units are to be expected, as each item is treated individually by hand.